Seems like we're crashing headlong into SS16 for Pretty Green, or maybe the new Leafy pieces are a transition range. Who knows, but the signs are AW15 is as good as done and dusted. So barring Sales excitement it's all about the new ranges from here on in...so what better time to take a look back through AW15, did it hit the mark?
As usual we'll pick through the Labels, up first is Green Label, then we'll have Theme Label (I do prefer that over Capsule so I'm going to be naughty and refer to it that way) and then we'll call in at the Daddy of them all...Black Label.
All the Labels carried a theme this year, despite self-proclamation that 'we're not a Mod Label' Green Label went with a Mod Ride-Out theme. I don't think this is a backtrack from PG in fairness, I think they're simply travelling round the map of British sub-cultures and it was time for a little stop off at Mod.
Green Label felt like quite a big range this season, I don't know if the pieces numbered more than any other season, but it certainly felt fairly sizeable. For me the 2 highlights are the Paisley pieces and the Outerwear
PG subtly tweaked their in-house Paisley pattern, removing text and adding some floral styling to give it a bit of AW15 freshness. The newly styled pattern was then splashed across jackets, tees, polos and shirts to fairly good effect. For me the pattern works at its best on the shirts, subtly wild is a fairly apt description I reckon. A shame there weren't Kaftans created using the same pattern, very little doubt they'd have been both outstanding and hugely popular. Perhaps PG felt they would have been a little too obvious, who knows, but a shame.
The pattern was also used to great effect as detailing on grandad tees and polo-shirts, sometimes less really is more.
Lots of other goodness across Green Label, but Paisley is where it's at.
The gold star for Green Label has to go to their Outerwear range, a smart array of winter styles were dropped on us. I'll ignore the terrace friendly early pieces and head straight to the Mod based outer styles, quite simply the best pieces on Green Label for AW15. Let's be honest, it's pretty much a set of Jackets based on the Parka, outstanding! Pretty much something there to suit all tastes and give options across a variety of price points. Up at the top of the pile for me is the Lennox, what an absolute beauty. A proper full on no shit Winter Parka, it's pretty much perfect really (take the zip out the hood and add a head- toggle and we'd hit perfection). The Swedish Parka takedown, the Parbrook, is a great lesson in refining. Take the Swedish, lop a few inches off the bottom, improve the neck guard and make it Double-Breasted, genius really. Obviously the Swedish still absolutely rocks, but the Parbrook can stand proud alongside it.
The Bonded is a nice alternative to a quilted Parka, haven't seen one myself but guessing it's perfect for the colder days. Then all rounded out by the mighty fine Winchester. This appeals on a very simple, classic level, it's a Parka shell delivered without fuss or nonsense. Straight up smart, pair off with a cool roll neck on the colder days and you're covered.
What more can I say, an impressive Outerwear collection.
The Theme Label for AW15 was pretty excellent, let's just get that statement in nice and early. All the Theme collections have been pretty damn good (yes, that includes Storm which I actually liked, some folks seem to think I slated it for some reason), but there is a feeling that with Northern Soul PG really hit the top level. Pre-launch a number of folks weren't too sure about it, a bit unclear on what would be dropped, there was a lot of chatter it would be a poor man's take on Fred Perry's previous Twisted Wheel capsule. I think (personally) PG absolutely nailed it and took more than a few of us a bit by surprise at how good it was. And just for clarity so I don't go upsetting anyone at PG HQ, I think we all knew it would be really good, I think a lot of folks were surprised at how truly great it was.
Where to start on such a range...so many cool pieces. T-shirts took well known Northern Soul imagery and twisted it with a PG slant that dug into LG's Oasis backstory. Some crazy and cool geometrics patterns were rendered on the Brighton pieces tying directly in to the early 70's aesthetics. One of the kings of Motown was checked out for influences, in came the remarkable and simple x-cross pattern tied across various pieces. Working best on the collar of the Prestwich IMHO....
A super cool Boating Blazer was introduced to tie in to the very early Mod convert days of the scene. It really is a stand out awesome looking piece, invest.
The popular colour-blocking of the late 60's and early70's was used well across a number of pieces, working particularly well when used on the knitwear for me. I mean c'mon, the Supreme...need I say more?
Have to add in some special praise for the return of some silk scarf options, both designs cry out smartness and if you don't mind investing in a scarf I do recommend the Crossfire.
And we can't talk about the range without mentioning the Dascanio jacket. A piece that perfectly sums up Pretty Green for me...cool...smart....different...wild....unafraid....it really truly is an incredible piece. Challenged as the best single piece of AW15 only by Black Label Outerwear. It perfectly picks out all points across the scene that influenced it's design, Pat Salter and the PG design team need to make sure this piece is at the top of their Portfolios.
Right, enough time wasting, let's move on to the range that sits at the top of the PG pile, Black Label! In keeping with Pretty Green's desire to have a musical narrative to each collection they went all out with BL AW15. Why have one influence when you can have 2, and in came The Beach Boys x The Beatles.
I think there's more Beach than Beatle to the range, which I don't think was anything bad at all. Key influence for the range was the Wild Honey record sleeve and the personal style of The Beach Boys resident tortured genius Brian Wilson.
Sticking with Black Label's more stylised and formal recent approach the range keeps things subtle and high end.
It's quite a small range, a few folks have picked up on that. Again, I don't know the exact numbers in comparison to previous seasons, but it definitely feels smaller. Quality over quantity!
In most ranges there will be pieces you just aren't that in to, the 'not for me' pieces. This Black Label collection doesn't have a single piece I wouldn't be happy with, likely the best compliment I can pay it.
Sadly the pieces I was after have sold out, so at the moment there is no BL AW15 hanging in the wardrobe.... :-(
However, I ain't bitter so let's take a look at a few stand out pieces.
Not unexpectedly the Knitted Shirt sold out fairly rapidly, it's the sort of piece Black Label is all about. Super smart.
Kaftans were in and there is no doubt the Wilson style, based on a shirt as worn by Brian Wilson himself, was the top choice among the troops and followed the Knitted Shirt to a sell out. PG's talented in-house artist drew out the pattern, modifying slightly, to create something pretty special. only shame is that they didn't use it on more pieces.
Looks like we have continuation pieces appearing in Black Label and if this is the case then PG can count my support. It's the top range and we need to have some timeless wardrobe staples available 24/7/52/365 in my opinion. Knock that thinking if you wish for me, but there are certain styles that will be desired. The tab collar shirts are something that should hang in all mens wardrobes. I don't know personally if I'd include the Lux Polo as a necessity, but it's nice and keeping it in range and swapping colours each season would be pretty good. Is it just me or is the White Lux the brightest white you've seen?
Last mention goes to pieces like the new roll neck jumper which looks to draw inspiration from McCartney and to the quality of the small Outerwear range. The Carbury and and the Reefer just edge the 2 top spots for me. And plus points to PG for lining and quilting both of those styles to add some well needed Winter warmth.
I normally close out a review by talking about pieces I'd like to have seen, however this time I'm going to go for some detail suggestions...I'm not telling PG what to do of course, fair to say they know a whole better than I do....but just some thoughts
L/S Polo Shirt cuffs....these were removed some time ago, I'd quite like to see them come back as the style, for me, just looks far better finished off with a cuff.
Hooded Parkas...would be pretty handy to have a head toggle on the hoods on these by my reckoning, sometimes the hoods are just a little too baggy so it would be good to be able to adjust them, especially on those windy days
Waterproof...great to see the Cambert in a waterproof style, can we have more options please.....say a Festival Jacket..or hey, the Storm Poncho template in a light waterproof style for Summer festival use
Leather...how about some of the shoe styles but done in leather? LG might not want leather, but we do!
Harrington...lined and double button collar maybe?
Jeans....bring back some Selvedge?
Solid Logo Tee...........gotta be time for a return, definitely maybe? Black with tangerine logo...ah go on
What do you think, what would you like to see...?
So overall, some pretty good work from Pretty Green to keep us clothed well throughout AW15 (and beyond obviously). Some top highlights in each Label and without any doubt the Northern Soul theme was a real high point this season. We knew it wuld be good, we dind't expect the greatness we got.
Peace&Love, theSub